When you look at the blazers from Circle of Gentlemen, the exceptional quality is immediately apparent. What might be less obvious at first glance is the price tag, which is often considerably higher than that of average brands. Is this premium justified?
The answer is a resounding yes, and it all comes down to three crucial elements that form the core of the Dutch brand's philosophy: the use of exclusive Italian fabrics, and an uncompromising approach to pattern matching and the addition of details such as lining, buttons, and AMF stitching.
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1. The origin of excellence: Italian fabrics
The foundation of any high-quality garment begins with the fabric. Circle of Gentlemen consciously chooses to work exclusively with renowned Italian textile producers and weavers, such as the prestigious Angelico, brecotessile, Alfatex, and so on.
These Italian weaving mills are known worldwide for their unparalleled craftsmanship. They only use the finest, long-staple wool types, cashmere, or linen. The result is a fabric that not only feels luxurious and drapes beautifully, but is also significantly more durable.
2. The art of the pattern: unmatched alignment
This is perhaps the most important, yet least visible, reason for the higher price. With many off-the-rack blazers, fabric is cut as efficiently as possible to minimize waste. Consequently, patterns of checks, stripes, or other designs often do not align neatly at the seams (think of the transition between the front panel and the pocket or the sleeve).
Circle of Gentlemen applies a different standard: perfection in alignment so that patterns match.
The "Higher Fabric Usage" Principle
To ensure that every check or stripe on the lapels, pockets, and side seams flows seamlessly into one another, considerably more fabric is needed per blazer. The cutter must discard or 'lose' pieces of fabric to perfectly align the separate pattern parts before they are manufactured.
This 'lost' material and the extra time required for this precise cutting process drive up production costs. What you get in return is a blazer that looks sharp and thoughtful. It is this attention to detail that distinguishes a Circle of Gentlemen blazer from the mass and gives it the appearance of custom tailoring.
3. Attention to detail: buttons and lining
The love for craftsmanship at Circle of Gentlemen lies in the details that make the difference between a standard suit and a premium garment.
•   Functional "Kissing Buttons": On the cuffs, you will find five 'kissing buttons' (buttons that slightly overlap). These buttons are not just decorative; they are functional, with real, fully finished buttonholes. This detail, often only found on expensive bespoke suits, makes it possible to roll up the sleeves or wear a larger watch, but requires a more complex and expensive production method than the standard fake buttonholes.
•   Luxurious Viscose Lining: Instead of a cheap polyester lining, the brand uses supple, breathable viscose. The lining features an exclusive, subtle, interwoven (jacquard) logo or pattern. This feels more comfortable on the skin and shows that even on the inside of the blazer, where no one sees it immediately, no concessions have been made to quality and appearance.
4. The finishing touch: AMF stitching
A subtle, but crucial characteristic of a high-quality blazer is the finishing of the seams along the lapels, pockets, and edges. Circle of Gentlemen uses so-called AMF stitching, also known as 'pick stitching'.
What is AMF stitching?
These are small, almost invisible stitches that are applied with a special, slow machine (the American Machine and Foundry, hence 'AMF') or even by hand. These stitches are not only decorative; they have a functional purpose. They ensure that the inner lining (the 'canvas' or interlining) and the outer fabric of the blazer stay neatly in place, keeping the lapels lying nicely flat and the jacket retaining its shape. It is a labor-intensive process that is a clear sign of a garment made with care and attention.
Conclusion: an investment in quality
Circle of Gentlemen blazers are more expensive because they make no compromises. They combine the world's best textiles with a production method that prioritizes beauty over efficiency.
It is an investment in a garment that not only fits better and looks better, but one that you will also enjoy for years to come. In the world of menswear, quality is not a cost item, but a conscious choice.